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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the ledge in the gorge to the right and up the wall, passing 2 Ks to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Into the gorge between the South and North peaks of the tower, to the right onto a step,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Up the wall to the left of the "Right Southeast Chimney" to a groove, along it to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the left SE chimney to the left towards the 'clocks', upwards to K and slightly left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Up the wall to the right of the "Right Southeast Chimney" to a ledge and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the left SE chimney to the right onto a rounded edge and along it across K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Through the right plateau chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the left SE chimney to the right onto an edge and across K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Along the western edge of the South summit, passing 2 Ks to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Through the left plateau chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Hranatec
From the East massif (or descend to a wedged boulder) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Sitenský trpaslík
Up the sloping wall along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Sitenský trpaslík
By jumping from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hranatec
Through the plateau chimney in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Sitenský trpaslík
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the right side of the SE chimney to the right onto a platform and upwards to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Troglodyt
Through the plateau chimney from the bottom of the gorge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lukešova věž
From V to the chimney between the outcrop and the tower and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Troglodyt
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Lukešova věž
Across the left part of the downhill wall to a ledge ('clocks') and through the center of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Lukešova věž
From the west into the chimney between the foreland and the tower and through it, unknown… Rock Climbing
1
Troglodyt
From the massif descend to the center of the plateau wall, step over the chimney and to… Rock Climbing
3
Troglodyt
From the saddle along a rounded edge and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Troglodyt
From the saddle traverse through the plateau chimney and the "Step Over" route to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Troglodyt
Through the center of the South wall, past the 'clocks' to the notch and traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jirkova věž
From the uphill side, up the chimney, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
2
Chlupáč
Up the chimney, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
7
Jirkova věž
In the downhill wall, up a crack to a hole and to K, over an overhang to a ledge and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jirkova věž
In the north wall, easily along a ledge to the uphill chimney under the overhang. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Chlupáč
From the massif, unknown variation. Rock Climbing

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