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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Rabbi Löw
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pátá věžička
On the left in the upper wall, by a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Golem (Bischofsmütze)
Start on the NW edge (slings), then left into the center of the S wall and past the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Golem (Bischofsmütze)
In the NW wall, to the right of the recess, upwards via a short corner to the W edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pátá věžička
From the saddle, through the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Golem (Bischofsmütze)
Through the narrow NW wall along cracks past a bolt, upwards, right to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pátá věžička
From the saddle, traverse right into the W wall to a crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pátá věžička
Along a ledge to the left into the S wall. Over steps, then higher via a crack to a ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pátá věžička
From the base of the rock face, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Golem (Bischofsmütze)
Through the left part of the upper wall, past 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Konrád (Talwächter)
In the north wall, to the right of the "North Wall" route, directly over K, n. v. (not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pátá věžička
Through the right part of the valley (S) wall, past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Konrád (Talwächter)
Through the center of the S wall, past 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pátá věžička
By a crack to the left of the valley chimney to a ledge, then by another crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pátá věžička
In the right part of the S wall, via cracks to a balcony, then along an edge past a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pátá věžička
From the valley, through an inner chimney to the saddle and a short SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pátá věžička
By a crack in the S wall to the base of the rock face, and then by the "valley crack" to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Konrád (Talwächter)
By the right part of the upper wall over K, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Konrád (Talwächter)
In the left part of the valley wall, by crack to the ledge to the hourglasses. Up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Konrád (Talwächter)
By the left valley edge over 1st K to the hourglasses and further up, higher diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Konrád (Talwächter)
From 1st K orig. route left by the wall over another K, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Konrád (Talwächter)
Orig. route under the cave, then traverse left over K to the large ledge and n. v. (not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Konrád (Talwächter)
2 m to the right of the start of "Route in honor of KV Treugilde." Wall to the oblique… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Konrád (Talwächter)
"Route in honor of KV Treugilde" to the ledge and right to the large hourglasses. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Konrád (Talwächter)
By edge over K, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Čtvrtá věžička
Crack from the west, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Čtvrtá věžička
Crack from the east, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing
1
Třetí věžička
Chimney between "Second Tower" and tower. Higher by edge, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing
2
Čtvrtá věžička
Through the center of the N wall, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing
3
Čtvrtá věžička
SE face, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing Textile belay

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