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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Zaječí pracka
From the upland side to the left onto the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zaječí pracka
From the southern foot of the tower via the right edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Bohoušův synek
Along the long East edge and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Hrách
Via the east face over an overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bohoušův synek
Via the narrow SW wall and from the left across the valley balcony n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Bohouš
From the saddle through the gap between the overturned boulder into the downhill wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bohouš
By chimney from the upland side n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bohouš
From the saddle to the left behind the tree and straight up n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Bohouš
From the saddle to the right onto the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Liduprázdná
Descend from the massif from the northwest and hop n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Liduprázdná
Through the center of the downhill wall over 2 k, higher on the left n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Matznerova věž
Left part of the face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Matznerova věž
Center of the uphill face to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Matznerova věž
Start 2 m left of "Uphill Route", up the brittle overhanging face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Matznerova věž
Left part of the south face to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Matznerova věž
In the right part of the north face, up the recess to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Matznerova věž
Up the narrow west face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Jahnův kámen
From the left downhill edge diagonally right to the center of the downhill face under the… Rock Climbing
6
Jahnův kámen
Chimneying up the SE edge of the main tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jahnův kámen
Downhill face under the overhang to a ring bolt. Right over the overhang to the foreland… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jahnův kámen
Right part of the East face to a ring bolt, up to the platform and left to the block, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jahnův kámen
East face along the crack to a ring bolt. Then to the balcony, up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jahnův kámen
Center of the uphill face under the ledge, traverse left to the rib and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Jahnův kámen
By the edge to the right of the route "It's better to pull together in pairs" directly to… Rock Climbing Danger
9
Jahnův kámen
By the wall to the right of the valley southern edge directly over a bolt to the oblique… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Jahnův kámen
Start like the original route up to the ledge, traverse right to the "Uphill Cracks"… Rock Climbing
7
Jahnův kámen
By the chimney of the "Old Route" to the bolt and diagonally to the right and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce Ptačího údolí
From the center of the valley side wall right under the break and right to the bolt. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce Ptačího údolí
By the left valley edge over a bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážce Ptačího údolí
To the left of the "Stormy Edge" over a bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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