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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Veličenstvo
Center of the west wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Zaječí stěna
In the right part of the lower face from the block via the wall and crack across 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zaječí stěna
In the center of the lower face via the chimney to the terrace and "Old Way" n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Zaječí stěna
From NW chimney to the terrace and "Old Route" n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Konrád
Left upper edge using artificial steps n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Zaječí stěna
Via the left lower (W) edge across 3 bolts and a rappel bolt to the terrace and "Old Way"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zaječí stěna
Along the edge, wall, and crack on the pillar to K. Traverse right and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zaječí stěna
In the left part of the SE face across 2 bolts to the balcony. Via the inclined wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zaječí stěna
To the left of the right lower edge via the overhanging wall across 3 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zaječí stěna
In the right part of the lower face via the crack across a bolt then via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zaječí stěna
From the terrace from the West over the small overhang and via the left edge n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Zaječí stěna
Through the center of the upland face across a bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Zaječí stěna
From the terrace on the lower side, via the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Zaječí stěna
From the SE via the chimney to the terrace and "Old Way" n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Zaječí stěna
In the left part of the upland face from the block via the wall to the East edge and via… Rock Climbing
7
Zaječí stěna
In the right part of the upland face across a bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zaječí hlava
Via the wall to the left of "April Edge" to the pine tree. To the right "Western Route" n… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zaječí hlava
Via the left part of the North face across 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zaječí hřbet
In the right part of the lower face via a crack to a flake to a bolt, then via the wall n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zaječí hřbet
In the north face over the overhang to the 1st bolt, traverse left and up across the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zaječí hlava
In the right part of the valley wall via the chimney between the rock formation and the… Rock Climbing
6-
Zaječí pracka
Via the left valley edge over 2 K, via the wall to the left n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zaječí hlava
From the highest point of the saddle via the wall and rib n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zaječí hlava
Via the left lower edge across 2 bolts to a balcony below the overhang. Rightwards under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zaječí hlava
Via the left valley crack over K to the platform and via the "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zaječí pracka
At the right upland edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Zaječí hlava
Via the crack in the left part of the valley wall to the platform under the chimney and… Rock Climbing
5
Zaječí hlava
From the foot of the Southern edge via the wall to the left behind the edge into the cut.… Rock Climbing
6
Zaječí pracka
Via the right part of the valley wall over a K to the 3rd K of the "Eighth Color of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zaječí pracka
Through the middle of the valley wall over 2 K to a ledge, along it to the right and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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