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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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7
Lupus
Along the right valley edge (clock) to K and further to the balcony (loop). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Štepsl
Northern crack n.v. Rock Climbing
1
Beránkova věž
From the massif leap n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Lupus
From the W step over from the boulder to the edge and up the wall on the right n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Lupus
Leap from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Beránkova věž
Chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Stupňovitá věž
Through the center of the north wall to the terrace and further n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stupňovitá věž
From the valley with a double crack to the terrace and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Stupňovitá věž
South wall to the crack, it to the shelf, right to the next crack, to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Stupňovitá věž
On the left edge of the upland wall along the cracks to the terrace. Through the center… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Stupňovitá věž
From the massif step over the chimney, left to the terrace and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Stupňovitá věž
Upland chimney to its end (watch) and indistinct edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Stupňovitá věž
Southwest edge n, v, Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Kojot
Leap from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kojot
Chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Trojhran
Via the NW edge across BH and a slab, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kojot
From the E edge up the corner, left on the shelf and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Trojhran
Through the center of the E face, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Sarkofág
Via the upper (E) edge from the stump, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Sarkofág
Via a broken crack in the left part of the upper face across K, n. v. (K placed by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Trojhran
Via the SW edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Sarkofág
From the projection M, traverse to the E edge and along it, n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Sarkofág
Via the right part of the upper face to the oblique crack and to the right, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Trojhran
Via the upper edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Trojhran
Through the center of the S face, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Sarkofág
Via the left part of the SE face across K, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Sarkofág
Via a wide chimney between M and the tower to K and then a crack, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sarkofág
Leap from the massif, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Moloch
In the right part of the upper face across the overhang directly to K and via the edge, n… Rock Climbing
5
Moloch
From the hourglass on the S edge to the right into the NW face under the crack and… Rock Climbing

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