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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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5
Vojtěchodolský strážce
Diagonally left across the west edge to the small balcony to the left of it, along the… Rock Climbing
5
Vojtěchodolský strážce
Along the southeast edge below the summit, traverse left and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vojtěchodolský strážce
From the ledge in the middle of the valley face to the right along the cracks n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Pivovarská věž
Through the chimney between the towers to the end, overhang onto the main tower. Rock Climbing
2
Pivovarská věž
From the massif from the south, descent and jump n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Pivovarská věž
Right edge of the main peak n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Vojtěchodolský strážce
Through the crack in the south face under the overhang and from the left n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Pivovarská věž
From the northern massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Pivovarská věž
In the left part of the main summit wall, diagonally left to a crack and through it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Pivovarská věž
From the upland side through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Pivovarská věž
From the north through a chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna u Kobylky
In the valley (W) wall from the left to a pillar to the first K. Up to the second K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Sabath čarodejnic
By a pillar to the left of Kobylka via 3 K n. t.
5
Kobylka
Through the middle of the S wall to K, left and up over the ridge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Sabath čarodejnic
Up the SW corner along a horizontal groove and traverse right to K. From there across an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sabath čarodejnic
Right part of the valley (SW) wall, to the left of the edge via 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kobylka
Through a chimney from the plateau side n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kobylka
Through a chimney from the north n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sabath čarodejnic
In the right part of the SW wall, to the right of the route "Motorová košťata" through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Krysařík
Left part of the valley wall via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jonáš
Left part of the wall by a hand traverse to the first K, diagonally left to the second K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna u Kobylky
Through the middle of the SW wall via a hand-traverse rib to a prominent ledge, then by a… Rock Climbing
6
Stěna u Kobylky
By the right crack to a pillar, over an overhang to K, left into a gully and n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Krysařík
Across the plateau wall diagonally from right to left n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Jonáš
Wide crack and higher up through a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stěna u Kobylky
In the left part of the SE wall along the crack to K and from the right up the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jonáš
On the left side of the valley edge of the massif via K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vlkodav
On the left edge of the plateau n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vlkodav
Along the valley SE edge via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Baskervil
Along the left valley edge over the belay and the bolt n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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