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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Baskervil
By the right upper edge n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Vlkodav
Overhanging plateau wall from the right n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Vlkodav
From the massif to the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vlkodav
From the plateau side to the right to the left edge of the valley and a small chimney,…
3
Vlkodav
Left part of the valley wall to a small balcony at K and directly up n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Baskervil
On the left edge of the plateau n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Vlkodlak
By the left upper edge over the bolt n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vlkodlak
Along the valley edge over the big belay and the bolt n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Zběhlík
S wall traverse to the belay, up to the ledge and behind the edge n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vlkodlak
By the right upper edge to the small balcony and a small wall over the bolt n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vlkodlak
From the valley left of the window into the oblong hole (bolt) and directly n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vlkodlak
By the wall to the right (1 m) of the upper edge n.v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vlkodlak
Through the center of the upper wall directly over the bolt n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Vlkodlak
Through the center of the W wall directly over the big belay and 2 bolts n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zběhlík
Through the center of the upper wall n.v. Rock Climbing
4
Vlčí hřbet
Along the right valley edge n.v.
3
Vlčí hřbet
By the left upper edge along the crack n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vlčí hřbet
Through the center of the upper wall n.v. Rock Climbing
4
Zběhlík
By the right upper edge n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Zběhlík
By the corner at the left upper edge n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vlčí hřbet
By the valley wall into the hole, left onto the ramp and n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Vlčí hřbet
In the right part of the upper wall n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Zběhlík
Jumping from the massif n.v. Rock Climbing
4
Štíp
S edge n.v. Rock Climbing
6
Štíp
By the upper wall below the rappel point n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Slávkova věž
By the upper wall, a small corner to the right to the edge and n.v. Rock Climbing
8
Slávkova věž
On the left in the upper wall, left of the route "Krobové ticho", overhanging wall onto a… Rock Climbing
7
Slávkova věž
By the corner in the right part of the valley wall to the terrace and wall (loops) to K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Štepsl
Left part of the upper wall n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Štíp
In the NW wall over two shelves diagonally to the right to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing

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