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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Moloch
From the gully along the ledge to the left into the valley wall and upwards to K, via the… Rock Climbing
7
Moloch
Through the center of the upper face, to the left to the edge and along it across K, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Prevetnice
Along the right upper edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Prevetnice
From SW to the left into the valley wall and across it via the hourglass, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Prevetnice
Along the left upper edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Prevetnice
Via the narrow S face across the hourglass, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vlk
NW pillar, crack into a hole ('clocks') and to the right across a K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vlk
Right part of the SE wall onto a shelf and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vlk
Right part of the West wall across a K to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vlk
Center of the NW wall across an overhang to the left to the 'clocks', to the right across… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vlk
Along the blunt West edge into a hole, over the overhang to a K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vlk
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Vlk
From the left side of the sharp NE edge onto a shelf and across the overhang to a K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vlk
Center of the West wall across the 'clocks' and a K to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vlk
Southern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vlk
Center of the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Hyena
Upper small wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ovečka
Right part of the east wall n. v.
3
Veličenstvo
Right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Veličenstvo
Crack in the center of the lower (north) wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Veličenstvo
Left edge of the west wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ovečka
East wall on the left to the S edge (rocking stone) and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Konrád
Sharp northeast edge over BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Konrád
Crack on the right in the West wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Veličenstvo
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Konrád
Crack in the East wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Konrád
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Veličenstvo
Center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Veličenstvo
Upper opposition chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
10
Konrád
In the right part of the north wall to BH and right to the edge and through the 2nd BH n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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