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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Kapitán
From the massif, a short descent and a jump to the large spike and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kapitán
From the uphill side, right upwards to the balcony in the north wall, traverse right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kapitán
From the uphill side, through the crack to the pre-summit, left along the ledge (clock)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Bezhlavý myslivec
From the massif, descend and jump over n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kapitán
From the block, left onto the ledge to K, briefly upwards and left to the edge, to the… Rock Climbing
5
Kapitán
From the pre-summit, left and below the abseil n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Bezhlavý myslivec
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Bezejmenná
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Bezejmenná
From the massif, descend from the east and jump over n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Bezejmenná
From the south, through the chimney between M and the tower over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Bezejmenná
Through the chimney between the towers onto the lower tower. Fall and gully n. v. upper… Rock Climbing
6
Bezejmenná
Through the crack in the north wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Bezejmenná
Through the crack in the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Boudecká věž
Wall under the overhang over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Boudecká věž
Left part of the S wall to the ledge (hourglass), traverse left and center of the wall n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Boudecká věž
Wall along the left upper edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Boudecká věž
North wall to K, right to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Boudecká věž
From the adjacent tower n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Boudecká věž
Crack in the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kuloštítník
Gully in the right part of the N wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kuloštítník
Left part of the N wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní
In the right part of the lower wall through the notch and a small wall over (K) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Podzimní
Left lower edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kuloštítník
Right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Podzimní
Wall under the abseil n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kuloštítník
Center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kuloštítník
South wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kuloštítník
Left part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Věž nad Mokrou roklí
From the more distant massif jump n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Hejkal
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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