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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Mašík
From E to the terrace in the lower wall and to the left (hours) through the overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mašík
m to the right of Podkováňská n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kájínek
Upper chimney between M and the tower under the rappelling K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Vstupní masiv
On the upper side on the bench, right traverse the S wall to the 3rd K of the route "Kuní… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Kájínek
From the massif from E n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Vstupní masiv
Crack-chimney in the right part of the lower wall to the balcony and further around the… Rock Climbing
5
Vstupní masiv
In the left part of the S wall from the boulder up to the niche, traverse right to K,… Rock Climbing
6
Vstupní masiv
Start in the fall line of the 1st K, diagonally to the right to the crack and identically… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Kájínek
From the massif from S n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Left of the chimney, up the face and edge past 2 bolts to the 1st bolt of the "Marathon"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Up the north chimney and left to the 1st bolt. Upwards past 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vojtěchodolská stěna
From the gully to the mossy balcony and up the groove to the small cave, from the right… Rock Climbing
4
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Up the crack to the end, traverse right and up another crack to the pine tree and top. Rock Climbing
6
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Right of "Centrály" and a short traverse to the fine crack. Up the widening crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Left of the east edge, up the face past 3 bolts to the rappel bolt and top. Rock Climbing
5
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Up the chimney between M and the face to the bolt, traverse left to the east edge and top. Rock Climbing
5
Vojtěchodolská stěna
From the boulder in the gully, left to the edge and along the crimps left under the… Rock Climbing
3
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Up the chimney and left to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Vojtěchodolská stěna
Up the face from the valley directly to the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Smradlavý kámen
Along the southern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Smradlavý kámen
From the east, through a narrow chimney over the balcony to the top. Rock Climbing
9
Smradlavý kámen
Through the center of the upper south face directly over the overhang and up the face to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Večernice
With two jumps to the top. Rock Climbing
9
Smradlavý kámen
Up the valley's eastern gully to the "Old Route" balcony, and then along that to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Večernice
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
10
Smradlavý kámen
From the valley, up the face past 2 rings to the ledge, then left into the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Večernice
Over the overhang into the crack in the S face and top. Rock Climbing
4
Žezlo
By "Normal Route" to the pine tree, wall to the right and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Žezlo
From the SE edge diagonally left to K and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing

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