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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Vilém
Via "Vilém's crime" to the ledge, traverse to the left corner crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing
4
Vilém
Through the right uphill corner crack over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vilém
In the right side wall, a crack to a flake. Chimney to a ledge, wall over another ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vilém
In the right part of the uphill wall to the terrace and along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Morová věž
North chimney (about 4 m) to the NW edge, along it to the plateau and from the right to… Rock Climbing
4
Morová věž
In the chimney between the northern M and the tower to the plateau, back into the chimney… Rock Climbing
7
Morová věž
Climb the uphill wall under the belay upwards and to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jarmila
From the east through the chimney between the tower and the pre-rock to the end, overhang… Rock Climbing
7
Morová věž
Through the corner crack in the downhill wall to the ledge to the 1st K and over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Morová věž
By traverse to the right part of the SE wall, upwards and to the left over the overhang… Rock Climbing
2
Morová věž
From the northern massif, jump to the right to the western edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Morová věž
Through the crack of the route Májové korzo to the 1st K, left into the narrow chimney,… Rock Climbing
2
Jarmila
From the uphill M, overhang into the wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Jarmila
In the NE wall to K, higher to the ledge, along it to the left to the edge and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zadní masiv
When entering the left chimney, go straight n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna nad bivaky
From the left into the distinctive large breach, through the chimney to its bifurcation… Rock Climbing
7
Stěna nad bivaky
N about 7 m to the right of the large breach. Through the overhanging wall directly to… Rock Climbing
3
Zadní masiv
From the courtyard behind M on the right, into the chimney and up it n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Zadní masiv
Through the corner in the right part of the prominent slab n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna nad bivaky
Through the chimney on the E side of M into the cavity, passage to the lower wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zadní masiv
The route leads through a prominent slab in the right part of the massif. In the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zadní masiv
Before the entrance to the left chimney, go right into the corner and over the steps to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěna nad bivaky
To the left of the large breach from the slope into the chimney and before its narrowing… Rock Climbing
6-
Zadní masiv
In the left part of the massif, climb the wall (clock) to the end of the notch. On the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kájínek
Through the left lower crack to its end, diagonally left (K) to the ledge in the S… Rock Climbing
4
Kájínek
Through the chimney between the northern M and the tower (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kájínek
Through the notch from S to the slumped block and the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna nad bivaky
N in the right part of the wall, 5 m to the left of the SE edge. Along the articulated… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Mašík
In the left part of the upper side by a blunt edge and to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Mašík
Through the crack in the lower wall (wobbling rock!) to the terrace to the hours and the… Rock Climbing

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