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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Kaninský masiv 2
Through the center of the left wall of the massif, over a bolt (K) and a ledge directly. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kaninský masiv 4
Directly up the broken crack to the right of the route "Spáry pro kraťasy" (Cracks for… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kaninský masiv 2
Through the center of the right wall of the massif, passing 2 bolts (K) directly. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kaninský masiv 1
Directly through a prominent corner Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kaninský masiv 1
From the balcony directly up the smooth wall to the left of the crack, n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kaninský masiv 1
On the wall to the left of the corner, diagonally left upwards to the 1st bolt (K) in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kaninský masiv 1
Along the left edge of the massif, up the wall to a bolt (K) and then straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kuníček
At the left end of the West wall, over the edge into the downhill wall, diagonally to the… Rock Climbing
1
Kuníček
From the western massif, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kaninský masiv 1
Through a distinct honeycomb band closely to the right of the corner to K, to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kuníček
In the East wall, at the SE edge to the hourglasses and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kaninský masiv 1
Through the middle of the side of the massif over the 1st K to the balcony and with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kuníček
Directly up the uphill edge below the rappel point, n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kaninský masiv 1
Through a very overhanging wall to the right of the "Balcony Route" at its right edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kuníček
In the right part of the West wall onto the ledge, traverse to the left to the… Rock Climbing
1
Mansardová věž
From the western massif, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Krouna
Via the "April" route to the ledge, to the left to K in the South wall and upwards, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Mansardová věž
From the small saddle in the East gully, to the left into the downhill wall and in its… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Krouna
Via the "Petr's variant" of the "April" route to K, traverse to the left behind the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Krouna
Via the "April" route to the ledge, traverse through the chimney to the uphill side and… Rock Climbing
?
Krouna
Descend from the massif and jump across, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Mansardová věž
Directly up the SE wall below the rappel point, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Grobián
From the south, through the notch in M (opposite the north edge of Pobuda), higher left… Rock Climbing
3
Krouna
On the South side of the chimney between M and the tower, onto the shelf on the SE edge,… Rock Climbing
4
Grobián
Either directly with the wall under the crack, or traverse from the right from the small… Rock Climbing
5
Pobuda
In the East wall, through an overhanging crack and over the iron-rich slab to the ledge… Rock Climbing
5
Pobuda
Directly up the uphill wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Grobián
From the chimney on the uphill side, by a crack and small chimney, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Grobián
To the right of the downhill edge, with a slanting indentation upwards to the right and a… Rock Climbing
3
Grobián
From the saddle between Grobianka and M, along the rounded south edge to the bench, left… Rock Climbing

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