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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Věž u Starosti
Through the west wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
První
In the right corner of the S wall, through a crack and recess n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u Starosti
Along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u Starosti
Through the east wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Věž u Starosti
In the west wall over the overhang and along the SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Martin
Through the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Martínek
In the NE wall overhang into the crack, higher up through the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Martin
Through a crack in the valley wall, later a chimney on the fore-rock and the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Martin
Along the right downhill edge across K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Martínek
Through the middle of the S wall (clocks, loops) n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Martin
From NE through the chimney onto the boulder, step left onto the edge to K and along it n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Martin
Along the valley edge over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Martin
Through the middle of the SW wall across numerous clocks n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Martin
From the upper side through the chimney and sloping wall n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Martin
Through the center of the N wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Martínek
In the right part of the S wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Martínek
Along the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Žaludské eso
Along the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Žaludské eso
Through the recess in the downhill wall to the ledge and to K, to the right through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Škubova věž
From the upper edge traverse to the right and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Žaludské eso
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Žaludské eso
Through the left part of the S wall to the ledge and to 2. K. and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Žaludské eso
By jump from M n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Žaludské eso
By rib in the middle of the downhill wall and to the right to the edge to 1. K and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Žaludské eso
In the N wall by chimney to the clocks and along the edge across K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Žaludské eso
In the right part of the N wall overhang to the edge and along it to K. and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Lesan
Small chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesan
By the crack in the W wall to the left to the small corner and through it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lesan
In the right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Lesan
By the left upper edge to the balcony to the clocks. To the right n. v. Rock Climbing

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