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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Tři grácie
From the top of "Toad," up the edge, passing a bolt, not specified. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Tři grácie
From the 1st bolt of the "Angel Wings" route, to the left using cracks and an edge past 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tři grácie
Up a sloping ramp leftwards to the center of the valley face. Up the middle crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tři grácie
By the left downward-sloping crack and chimney to the saddle between the 1st and 2nd … Rock Climbing
5
Sasanka
Left of the "Grandson's Route", up the face, not specified. Rock Climbing
8
Tři grácie
Overhang to the large hourglasses, then along the edge past 3 bolts, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sasanka
Right of "Old Route", up a small wall to a slab and right along the edge, not specified. Rock Climbing
4
Citadela
From the passage, left up the edge, not specified. Rock Climbing
6
Portýr
In the left part of the valley face, briefly up a crack, then right to the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Citadela
From NW, through a chimney, not specified. Rock Climbing
5
Sasanka
Up the left upper edge, not specified. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Citadela
From SE, from the inside space, up a chimney, not specified. Rock Climbing
2
Citadela
Up the chimney, then up a recess higher up, not specified. Rock Climbing
6
Citadela
Up a small wall near the north edge to a bolt, then into the recess and up it, not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Sasanka
From the (upper) SE side from the saddle, easily, not specified. Rock Climbing
6-
Sasanka
From SW, up the right part of the face, passing a bolt, not specified. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Citadela
From the West, up a slab, not specified. Rock Climbing
8
Portýr
From the left valley edge, via a slanting groove to the bolt of the "Brázda" route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Portýr
Up the right part of the face, passing 3 bolts, to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Portýr
From the left valley edge, rightwards through a slanting groove to the center of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Malý vůz
From the north, through a smooth wall to a ledge to K. Right through the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malý vůz
Along the left valley edge over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
První
Along the valley edge into the hole, right over the overhang to K. Left through the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
První
In the right part of the S wall, through a shallow crack and the wall to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
6
První
From K diagonally to the right to K, and straight through the small wall to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
První
From NW through a crack to the balcony in the valley wall, then via the "Good Day" route… Rock Climbing
6-
Malý vůz
In the center of the valley wall, through a faint, fractured recess to K. Through a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
První
From the north, traverse from the slope with an overhanging start to the right to the… Rock Climbing
3
První
To the left of "Traverse", through an inner chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
První
In the NW wall, through the overhanging notch and the wall over K to the balcony. Then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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