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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Lesan
By chimneying between the E wall and the massif to the crack and through it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Škubova věž
By the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Škubova věž
In the left part of the western wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Škubova věž
In the right part of the western wall, by corner climbing to the hole (clocks) and over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Škubova věž
By the north wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Věž pod smrkem
NE chimney (below the abseil) to the balcony to K. Inclined slab n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž pod smrkem
Through the center of the north wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
1
Hafík
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hafík
SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Hafík
Through the center of the east wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Hafík
In the E wall to the right to the edge to the clocks, traverse the valley wall to the NW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Hafík
Chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Věž pod smrkem
In the right part of the N wall, over K and clocks directly to the balcony and by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stěna u jednorožce
Up the center of the wall, passing 2 bolts (K) to the crack, up it and higher up the…
9
Stěna u jednorožce
In the left part of the wall, passing 3 bolts (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna u jednorožce
Up the left part of the wall, passing 3 bolts (K) to the crack and up it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Stěna u jednorožce
Up the right part of the wall, passing 4 bolts (K) to the rappel bolt (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna u jednorožce
Up the chimney in the right part of the massif. Rock Climbing
8
Stěna u jednorožce
Up the center of the pillar in the right part of the massif, via the 1st bolt (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna u jednorožce
From the right side of the valley-side wall, briefly onto a balcony and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna u jednorožce
To the right of the chimney, up the wall from the right using the edge to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tvrziště
Up the right part of the broken-off side wall, over a ledge and a bolt (K) directly. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Tvrziště
Up the left part of the broken-off side wall, over a ledge and a bolt (K) directly. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kaninský masiv 4
Up the crack in the right part of the massif, via a bolt (K) of the route "S morálem v… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kaninský masiv 4
Up the crack in the right part of the massif to the 1st bolt (K), then up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kaninský masiv 4
Up the wall to a small cave. From there, diagonally right onto a ledge to the 1st bolt (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Tvrziště
From the valley, up the left part of the wall as you wish to below the summit overhang,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Helion
In the left part of the main massif, up the wall along the left edge, passing 2 bolts (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Helion
Along the edge and wall of a separate block to the 1st bolt (K). Up the wall and edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kaninský masiv 1
Start on the wall to the left of the corner, along the notch to a bolt (K), then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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