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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Pobuda
From the boulder on the uphill side, step over to the ledge, traverse to the right into… Rock Climbing
1
Grobián
From the massif, with a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Grobiánka
From the north, through the chimney to the saddle between M and the tower and right to… Rock Climbing
3
Grobiánka
From the south, through the corner to the saddle between M and the tower and the south… Rock Climbing
1
Kocouří skála
From the northeast to the promontory and with a step over to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Kocouří skála
From the gorge from the northwest into the chimney between the west and the main part of… Rock Climbing
5
Kocouří skála
In the east face, from the right along the ledge, descend under the chimney, up the small… Rock Climbing
4
Kocouří skála
In the right part of the downhill face, through the overgrown notch to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Váza
In the S wall left onto the SW edge and higher up a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Váza
In the NE wall right behind the edge and a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Micka
Valley chimney between the tower and the S massif onto a ledge, right onto a ledge in the… Rock Climbing
4
Váza
From the gorge through the center of the southeast wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Váza
NW wall from the valley directly n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Váza
Upland (E) edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Mikeš
Descent from the upland massif, overhang into the wall and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Micka
From the saddle between M and the tower into the chimney between the W turret and the… Rock Climbing
1
Mikeš
From the massif left, overhang and along a depression n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Mikeš
On the upland side, a widening chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Micka
In the right part of the saddle between M and the tower onto a ledge in M, traverse left… Rock Climbing
4
Mikeš
Right valley chimney over two thresholds, higher up a crack into the overhang of "The Old… Rock Climbing
7
Micka
From the start to the valley (E) chimney right onto a ledge, diagonally right upwards … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Mikeš
By jump from the southern massif n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Micka
From the upland side onto the W turret and by jump n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Micka
From the slope above the tower onto a ledge in M and a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Mikeš
Left valley chimney, initially in the chimney along the crack (loops), higher up to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jarmila
From the uphill M step over to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vilém
From the valley side, a gully, left onto a terrace and over a hole n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Vilém
From the valley side, a gully, right onto a ledge (clocks), from the right into the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vilém
In the right side wall, a left crack to a flake. Via "Backpack Full of Useless Things" n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vilém
From the massif jump to the summit. Rock Climbing

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