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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Strážce Ptačího údolí
By the valley crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Trojský kůň
By the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trojský kůň
From the valley side by a chimney to the ledge and with a pull-up n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Trojský kůň
By a crack in the west wall (sling, hourglass) to the ledge and with a pull-up n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trojský kůň
3 m to the left of the start of the "Normal Route" by a crack and over 2 ledges n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Trojský kůň
Briefly by a crack in the right part of the western wall (slings) and right to the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Strážce Ptačího údolí
Through the center of the upper wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Ptačího údolí
Overhanging southern wall over 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Trojský kůň
From the east by a small chimney to the ledge and with a pull-up n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hektor
Up the northwest face along the south edge (below the rappel point) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hektor
Up the center of the east face over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Hektor
From the southwest to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hektor
Up the chimney between the rock formation and the tower, step over to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rusalka
From the boulder on the upper side, left around the edge to the hourglass. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Pumpař
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rusalka
Up the wall below the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rusalka
Up the center of the smooth downhill face into the notch and over K directly into the sub… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rusalka
Up the cracks from the left onto the downhill edge and below the overhang (hourglass). By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rusalka
Over the overhang onto the south edge and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pumpař
Up the winding corner in the west face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Německá jehla (Konradstalnadel)
Through the valley (W) wall directly past 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Německá jehla (Konradstalnadel)
Along the valley edge, past 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Oharka
Up the north face along the depression to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Oharka
Up the center of the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rabbi Löw
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Golem (Bischofsmütze)
By the valley crack all the way to the recess. Traverse left and through the center of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Golem (Bischofsmütze)
In the right part of the valley wall, hand jams to the 1st bolt. Upwards and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Německá jehla (Konradstalnadel)
Through the center of the northern wall directly to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
6
Rabbi Löw
Up the northern edge, right into the wall and through it past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rabbi Löw
Along the valley edge, past 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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