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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Třetí věžička
W "Second Tower" n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing
4
Čtvrtá věžička
Western face, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing
1
Čtvrtá věžička
Western edge n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing
3
Třetí věžička
Through the center of the N wall to the W summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Třetí věžička
SW wall over K, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Druhá věžička
Up the facelet (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Třetí věžička
Edge over K to the W summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Třetí věžička
Through the center of the E wall in the upper part to the right into the notch (not split… Rock Climbing
2
Třetí věžička
Up the chimney (n. v.). Rock Climbing
2
Druhá věžička
From the left into the crack and on (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Třetí věžička
Up the northeast edge to the east peak. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Třetí věžička
SE edge to the E summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Třetí věžička
Through the center of the N wall to the E summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Třetí věžička
South wall over K to the eastern summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Druhá věžička
Up the chimney between the tower and "Third Towerlet" to a ledge and on (n. v.). Rock Climbing
5
Druhá věžička
From the northwest crack to the ledge (also reachable to the right from the start of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Druhá věžička
Up the face between the "Practice Crack" and the "North Crack" (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Druhá věžička
From the ledge in the southwest face diagonally left upwards via K (n. v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Druhá věžička
From the chimney between the tower and "Third Towerlet," left and up a crack to a small… Rock Climbing
3
Druhá věžička
In the upper half of the southwest face, diagonally left from the southeast to the ridge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
In the north face, left of the "Bivouac Crack," up the face past 2 Ks (n. v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the block at the north face directly to the first K. Traverse left and up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
In the north face, up the crack over the ledge (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
In the gorge between the South and North peaks, to the right onto a ledge and up the… Rock Climbing
7
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the base of the tower directly to the first K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the gully between the peaks, briefly up a chimney to a ledge, then left up a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
In the gorge between the South and North peaks, up the left chimney of the tower (n. v.). Rock Climbing
5
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Start from the gorge between the South and North peaks. Up the southwest face of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Via the "Ostrich Edge" route into the cave and directly over the overhang to K. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
From the boulder at the northwest edge into the cave. Straight up the edge, right onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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