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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Chlupáč
From the massif, descend to the chimney and traverse, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
7
Jirkova věž
From the south, through holes to a ledge ('clocks') and up a sloping slab past K, unknown… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jirkova věž
From the start of the route "Ten Years", through a tunnel in the wall to K and further,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Truskavenská věž
Up the southern edge, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
1
Truskavenská věž
From the massif, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
2
Truskavenská věž
From the uphill side, up the chimney, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
1
Jirkova věž
From the massif, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
3
Přílepek
In the right part, up a slightly overhanging crack and chimney, unknown variation. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Přílepek
Across the left part of the wall to an iron-rich ledge and to the right via a crack,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Klemperova stěna
In the left part of the wall, up an inner chimney to a ledge, traverse to the 1st K. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Klemperova stěna
Through the center of the face past 2 bolts (K) into the gully and along it, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Klemperova stěna
Along the right edge to the 1st bolt (K). Right behind the edge to the 2nd bolt (K),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Přílepek
Up the left chimney, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
3
Klemperova stěna
Up a varied chimney to the left of the wide central wall, unknown end. Rock Climbing
6-
Klemperova stěna
Across the left part of the wall past 3rd K, unknown end. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Klemperova stěna
On the left side of the face to the clocks. Up into the small cave, right to a bolt (K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Klemperova stěna
Up the face past the 1st bolt (K) upwards to the clocks, then rightwards past 3 bolts (K)… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Klemperova stěna
Straight up the face past the 1st bolt (K) and a horizontal notch to the 2nd bolt (K),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Klemperova stěna
Left of the "Dividing Chimney", through the center of the south face straight past 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Klemperova stěna
From the "On the Inclined Slab" route clocks, leftwards past 3 bolts (K) and the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Klemperova stěna
On the right side of the face (clocks) to the first bolt (K). Through the recess to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Klemperova stěna
Up the chimney to the right of the wide central face, n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Májový masiv
Up the face past two holes and higher up past 2 bolts (K), n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Májový masiv
On the right side of the massif, up the chimney, n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Májový masiv
From the right into the crack and along it to a bolt (K). Up the face, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Májový masiv
On the right side of the massif. Up the face and along small chimneys to a ledge. Then up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Májový masiv
Start with a shallow crack to the first bolt (K), to a ledge (clock) and across the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Májový masiv
On the left side of the massif, with a lift to a hole and chimneying to the 1st bolt (K).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Májový masiv
On the left side of the massif, up an indistinct corner past a bolt (K) to a ledge, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Halamova věž
Down the face, past a bolt (K), n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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