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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Ivan a Nataša
To the left of "Ruská trojka" (Russian Three), up the wall to "Ivan" to a bolt and up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Ivan a Nataša
Using a chimney technique between M and "Nataša", n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kocábova věž
From the SE wall through a hole and right along the ledge, n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Ivan a Nataša
From the massif, a jump, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ivan a Nataša
Up a crack in the northern wall of "Ivan" past an indistinct balcony under the head, and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ivan a Nataša
Between the routes "Cesta na babu" (Way to the Old Woman) and "Normální cesta" (Normal… Rock Climbing
3
Ivan a Nataša
From the west, up a crack and then a chimney between "Ivan" and "Nataša" (numerous slings… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Ivan a Nataša
From the saddle, up a small wall onto a narrower tower and a jump, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Holubář
From the upper side, to the right onto a balcony in the southern wall and through a small… Rock Climbing
2
Holubář
From the SW edge, follow ledges in the southern wall, traverse into the eastern wall to a… Rock Climbing
4
Holubář
Through the center of the upper wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ivan a Nataša
To the right of "Ruská trojka" (Russian Three), along cracks to "Nataša" to a bolt. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Holubář
Start up the eastern wall into a gully, then up a smooth wall to a balcony, and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Ivan a Nataša
From the saddle between the massif and the double tower, to the left onto a balcony, and… Rock Climbing
3
Odkázaná věž
In the right part of the upper wall (left of the beech tree), n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Čarodějův kozlík
From the upper side, directly, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Čarodějův kozlík
Through the valley wall and edge, past 3 rings, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Čarodějův kozlík
Through the left part of the valley wall, along a notch, past 2 bolts, n. t. (clock). In… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čarodějův kozlík
To the left of the route "Kamarádům do deště" (To Friends in the Rain), through a chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Holubář
Up the upper wall, higher up to the left, behind the edge in the northern wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Odkázaná věž
From the upper side, along a small wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Odkázaná věž
Along the left upper edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Signální věž
Valley chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Signální věž
From the ledge in the recess n. t. Rock Climbing
1
Signální věž
From the saddle along the ledge to the right and short edge n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Signální věž
NE edge n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Signální věž
Valley edge n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
From 2nd K traverse left and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Signální věž
1 m to the left of the "Birch Tree" crack to the balcony and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Signální věž
East face n. t. Rock Climbing

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