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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Roháček
Completely on the right along the edge and a sloping wall n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Král duchů
From the valley side, through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Král duchů
Through the center of the S wall over 2 fixed points n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zkamenělý svět
Through the crack over a fixed point n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Zkamenělý svět
Through the crack over a fixed point n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zkamenělý svět
Up the wall over 2 fixed points n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zkamenělý svět
Through the center of the wall over 2 fixed points and a rappelling fixed point n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zkamenělý svět
Through the crack over a fixed point n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zkamenělý svět
To the left of the gully up the wall over a fixed point n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Řepka
Through the center of the S wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Řepka
Up the wall directly without overhanging n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Řepka
From the plateau side, overhang into the wall above the small overhang and directly n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zkamenělý svět
On the left, through the crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zkamenělý svět
Through the center of the wall over a fixed point n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Řepka
In the right part of the S wall, directly up the wall and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zkamenělý svět
Left part of the wall over a fixed point n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zkamenělý svět
From the gully to the left of the route "Over the boulder" through the center of the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zkamenělý svět
Right part of the wall over a fixed point, to the right onto the balcony and n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Beránčí masív
Through the center of the right part of the massif up a smooth wall over the 1st ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Beránčí masív
In the right part of the wall, briefly into the crack and along it (slings, UFO) to its… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Beránčí masív
Completely in the right part of the massif (to the right of the crack) over 2 rings n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Beránčí masív
In the left part of the massif, through a notch into the large hole, directly to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7-/7
Pohádková stěna
Through the middle of the lower wall, over 3 bolts, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Pohádková stěna
In the first part of the massif, via the wall to the ledge to the 1st bolt and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kníže pekel
In the left part of the wall (to the right of the passage), via the wall over 2 bolts,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kníže pekel
To the left of the wide, broken crack, via the wall over a specific hole and 2 bolts, top… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Andělská pevnost
Via an indistinct edge to the 1st bolt, right to the 2nd bolt, and top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Andělská pevnost
Via the "Archangel" route to the 1st bolt and left through the chimney, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Andělská pevnost
In the middle of the wall to the bolt, and straight up the wall, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Kníže pekel
To the left of the passage, via an overhanging small wall, over 2 bolts, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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