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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Pavlovická věž
In the left part of the uphill wall, with a dihedral between M and the tower, later along… Rock Climbing
5
Pavlovická věž
From the start of "Northwest Edge" traverse into the overhanging wall (or through the… Rock Climbing
10
Sfouknutá svíčka
In the left part of the overhanging wall (from the fence), up the wall directly over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Rožec
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rožec
Chimney between M and the tower under the rappelling K n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rožec
From the upland side along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Rožec
Chimney in the right part of the upland face, higher up along the fissure n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Rožec
In the downhill face from the right to the bench, along it to the chimney, up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Rožec
Up the face in the right part of the downhill face to the ledge, on the right along the… Rock Climbing
4
Pavlíček
Through the right part of the uphill wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zločinec
In the center of the downhill face over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zločinec
Along the W edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zločinec
Left part of the S face and over the peak n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zločinec
Right upland edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Pavlíček
Through the narrow SW wall over K, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pavlíček
Northern edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Pavlíček
Through the left part of the uphill wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Zločinec
Jump from the summit "Judge". Rock Climbing
1
Kuželka
Along the uphill edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Chudobínská věž
Through the rib in the south wall over K, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kuželka
From the left onto the west edge and along it over K, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Chudobínská věž
To the right of the uphill edge, up the small wall straight up, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Chudobínská věž
2 m to the left of the uphill edge, up the small wall and gully, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kuželka
To the left of the uphill edge, over the rounded small balcony, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Chudobínská věž
Through the right part of the south wall over the hole and K, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Chudobínská věž
Through the left part of the east wall over K, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce květnice
In the left part of the downhill wall (belay) onto the balcony and straight up, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Strážce květnice
Along the left uphill edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Chudobínská věž
To the left of the uphill edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Strážce květnice
From the massif, n. v. Rock Climbing

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