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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Snoubenka
Up the crack in the center of the wall, over K, to the ledge in the E wall and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Snoubenka
From the upland side behind the flake to the E ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Snoubenka
Up the west wall to K. Up the wall to the ledge, from there straight up the wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Snoubenka
To the left of the edge, up the wall to K. Up the edge to the ledge in the E wall and n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Snoubenka
Up the chimney in the right part of the valley (N) wall to the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Snoubenka
Through the center of the east wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Snoubenka
From the upland side to the flake. From its beginning, up the wall with falcon-like… Rock Climbing
6-
Snoubenka
In the right part of the N wall to the 1st K. To the right to the edge, along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Snoubenka
To the left of the valley chimney, up the corner under the overhang to the 1st K. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Snoubenka
In the left part of the valley (N) wall, up the crack to the ledge in the E wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Snoubenka
From the SE edge, left along the ramp to the S wall and through its center, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Snoubenka
In the left part of the S wall, up one of the two chimneys on the ledge and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Snoubenka
In the right part of the S wall, up the wall from the right to K. Up the wall to the ramp… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Litoměřická věž
In the left part of the East wall briefly into the open crack and along it to its end,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Litoměřická věž
From the SE edge up the wall to the left to the pre-summit. Jump to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Litoměřická věž
Briefly up the SE edge and traverse to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Litoměřická věž
From K directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Litoměřická věž
Through the middle of the NW wall, follow the crack to the 1st K. Up the wall past 2 K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Litoměřická věž
Through the left part of the downstream wall into the hole (holds), and from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Litoměřická věž
Up the wall left of the Dance Break route over 4 rings to the ring of the Mravenčí rojení… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Litoměřická věž
Up the wall left of the "Downstream Chimney" above the hole to the 1st K, along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Litoměřická věž
To the right of the "Vězeňské blues" (Prison Blues) route, straight up the wall over 3 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Litoměřická věž
Through the corner crack in the right part of the East wall upwards and traverse to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Litoměřická věž
Start left of the downstream chimney, up the wall to the 1st K, briefly left and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Litoměřická věž
In the middle of the downstream wall, follow the crack to the 1st K, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Litoměřická věž
Up the downstream chimney and in its upper part to the right and up the wall onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Litoměřická věž
Briefly "Old Route", then traverse left to a distinct depression at K (sling), diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Plazivá
Without climbing aids to the trough, from K about 1 m upwards to the right and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Litoměřická věž
SW edge to 1st K. On the ledge 2 m to the left and to 2nd K. Left into the depression and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Plazivá
To the right of the downstream chimney to K and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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