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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Lesní stráž
From the W side via a chimney to a large terrace. Via the wall under overhangs and… Rock Climbing
7
Lesní stráž
To the right of the chimney via a lieback and higher up via a crack to a large flake … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Lesní stráž
On the upland side right along steps to a ledge, left and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce rybníka
Via the wall diagonally to K, left via a lieback n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážce rybníka
Via the crack to its end, right to K. Via the crack and higher up via the edge n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Strážce rybníka
Via the crack and higher up the wall to the right to K. Via the wall to a sloping ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Břevnovská věž
Via the left valley edge via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Břevnovská věž
Via the right valley edge via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Břevnovská věž
In the left part of the S wall upwards to the ledge. Traverse right into cracks and… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce rybníka
In the middle of the S wall via an overhang to the belay and to the 1st K. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Břevnovská věž
From the saddle via the V edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce rybníka
From the gully in the right part of the S wall via an overhanging crack to K. Right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážce rybníka
Via the wall to a sloping ledge to the belay, via holes to the right to the 1st K and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Strážce rybníka
From the upland side via steps n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Malá křížová věž
Via the valley chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Malá křížová věž
Through the chimney to the right of the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Břevnovská věž
Via cracks and the wall to the left of "Old Way" n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Břevnovská věž
Via the overhanging NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Malá křížová věž
Via the upper edge to the ledge and left n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Krejcar
Up the notch in the north face n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Krejcar
Up the crack and wall in the downhill face n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Skálecký roh
Up the wall in the right part of the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Krejcar
Up the south crack n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Skálecký roh
Up the downhill edge, along the crack and the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Starosvětská věž
Up the chimney, higher up via the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Starosvětská věž
From the middle of the east face diagonally right to the crack and it to K. Up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Starosvětská věž
5 m to the right of the Medieval Route, step over from terrace M to the small wall and… Rock Climbing
6-
Starosvětská věž
NE edge over the hourglass to K under the overhang, via the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Starosvětská věž
Up the wall to the left of the route "Birch Crack" n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Starosvětská věž
From the catwalk to M, step over to the SE edge and follow it n. v. Rock Climbing

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