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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Rosnička
From the ledge, by the W face over K n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rosnička
On the left in the upper face, left to the SW edge and follow it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Rosnička
In the left part of the upper face, by an indistinct corner n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Tchoří věže
From S, by a corner crack to the S summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tchoří věže
Through the center of the W face over 2 K to a ledge and straight up n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Tchoří věže
By cracks to the valley (S) edge and to K and upwards past the 'clock' n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tchoří věže
Right crack to the S summit. Rock Climbing
1
Tchoří věže
N face of the S tower or its chimney to the foreland and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Tchoří věže
Through the chimney between M and the S tower n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tchoří věže
From the massif n. v. the main tower. Rock Climbing
3
Smuteční
From the eastern M, traverse into the holes and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Tchoří věže
N face n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tchoří věže
S face n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Smuteční
Through the center of the valley wall over K upwards and left into the notch, traverse… Rock Climbing
6
Tchoří věže
From the block, overhang to the SE edge and follow it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tchoří věže
Up the Northwest edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Smuteční
North from the valley through the crack in the NW edge to the balcony via the original… Rock Climbing
2
Žabák
In the north wall to the tunnel, crawl through to the valley wall and right n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Žabák
Through the center of the North wall directly over the overhang and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Smuteční
Chimney between M and the tower onto the ledge on the NW edge. From the left, through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Žabák
Left side of the north wall to the ledge (clock on the left) and along the left edge of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Smuteční
From the eastern massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Smuteční
North stemming to the large ledge in the North wall, up the wall diagonally left to K and… Rock Climbing
4
Smuteční
Up the wide chimney to the end and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Žabák
From the base of the NW edge, follow the grooves to the end. Right to K, from there right… Rock Climbing
5
Žabák
East through the wall into the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Žabák
From the uphill (N) side (using a stance) to the left onto a balcony on the edge, using a… Rock Climbing
7
Žabák
Follow the Nová údolní stěna route to K. Up to K and left along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
První věžička
Through the center of the north wall onto the shelf. Rock Climbing
6
Špekáček
Along the east wall to K, right into the gully. Rock Climbing

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