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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Traverzová
NE edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Traverzová
Chimney between Mravenčí and the tower to K, overhang and gully on the left n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Traverzová
In the right part of the chimney between the towers n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Traverzová
From the chimney at the NE edge with a long traverse to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Traverzová
Chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Mravenčí
Along the SE edge, past the Key to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mravenčí
Through the center of the East face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mravenčí
Up the wall below the rappel point to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Mravenčí
Through the chimney between Traverzová and the tower upwards, fall into the wall and… Rock Climbing
4
Traverzová
Valley (SW) wall over mossy ledge n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Mravenčí
Jump from Traverzová to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mravenčí
By opposition between the tower and Traverzová and a crack to the balcony, from there to… Rock Climbing
6
Dívčí
Through the chimney between Dívčí and Turistická to the pillar, traverse and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tři věžičky
Along the SW edge of the West tower directly to its top and two traverses to the main… Rock Climbing
3
Tři věžičky
Through the center of the NE face of the first tower to the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tři věžičky
Through the center of the SW face of the middle tower to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Tři věžičky
Through the chimney between the West and the middle tower and a traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tři věžičky
Along the NW edge of the West tower, past the hourglass to the West summit and two jumps… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tři věžičky
Along the NE face of the middle tower to its top and a traverse to the main summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tři věžičky
Along the SE face to the terrace and to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Dívčí
From the boulder on the left and directly to the Key, then diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Dívčí
From the boulder near the South face, traverse left behind the edge into the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Dívčí
Along the right downhill edge to the Key, right onto the ledge and over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Turistická věž
Descent through the gully in M about 3 m and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dívčí
From the uphill side to the boulder, right into the chimney and onto the ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing
6
Dívčí
Through the crack in the right part of the East face, past the hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dívčí
From the boulder on the uphill side, right across the Key to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Dívčí
From the valley, crack and chimney to the ledge. Rock Climbing
2
Turistická věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dívčí
From the ledge traverse into the West face of the tower and directly to the top. Rock Climbing

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