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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Pinka
To the left of the northern edge, corner climbing, right to the edge to the tip and n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Pinka
Over the overhang and up the edge directly to the bolt of the route "Pankrác" and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pinka
Up the brittle, rusty corner between the northern edge and "Starou cestou" (Old route) n.… Rock Climbing
6
Pinka
Up the north pillar to the right to the bolt and to the left across a ledge directly n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Pinka
Up the chimney in the west face n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Pinka
In the SW face (to the right of the pillar), up the center of the small slabs, higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pinka
Up the center of the SW pillar n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Pinka
Up the corner between the SW pillar and the face and further n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Pinka
7 m from the right edge of the SW face along the fissure and points n. t. Rock Climbing
1
Pinka
To the left of the route "Dědova mísa" along the crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Pinka
To the left of the SW pillar n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Pinka
Up the edge into the groove and n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Pinka
In the left part of the South face, up a prominent groove and over the overhang (BH) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pinka
In the left part of the SW face, face climbing into the "funnel" and through it n. t. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Pinka
Along the overhanging crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pinka
On the right edge of the SW face, up a fragmented pillar to the crack (summit book) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pinka
Up the blunt edge and a swing n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Pinka
Up the narrow south face over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pinka
To the left of "Svážné cesty" (Difficult route), corner climbing, left to the tip and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pinka
To the right of the SE edge, face climbing under the overhang and over it n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Pinka
4 m to the right of the SE edge, face climbing to the crack and n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pinka
Up the wide recess from NE n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Pinka
Up the crack in a smaller corner n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pinka
Sloping slab to pointed tip and n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
Up the narrow east edge (BH) directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
From (BH) in the original route directly up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Pinka
From the north easily n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Pinka
4 m to the left of "Old Route" through the center of the small wall along the crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
On the edge of the south face using delicate chimneys (BH) directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
2 m to the left of "South Route" over a rounded bulge and then directly up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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