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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Rakovinová věž
In the right part of the lower wall, via a bolt (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Ideální skála
Up the middle of the lower wall via 2 bolts (K) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
1
Ideální skála
Start from the West, step across and top out. Rock Climbing
3
Ideální skála
Up the right lower chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Ideální skála
Up the left lower chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Ideální skála
From the massif, descend from the NW and step across to top out. Rock Climbing
8
Čertova stěna
On the far left of the wall, climb a smooth face past a bolt (K) to a ledge. Then, about… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čertova stěna
To the left of the route "Tůmoid", up the edge with 3 bolts (K) and top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čertova stěna
Up the edge in the middle of the wall of the left part directly over 2 bolts, not topped… Rock Climbing
7
Čertova stěna
To the right along the SW edge over a bolt directly to the rappel bolt and not topped out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Čertova stěna
Up the right crack in the left part to a bolt, from the left onto the grassy ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Čertova stěna
To the left of the "Strýček maso" route, up the crack over a bolt, not topped out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertova stěna
Through the center of the NW wall directly over 2 bolts, not topped out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čertova stěna
Up the crack in the middle of the right part of the wall over a bolt, not topped out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertova stěna
In the left part of a separate block, up the rounded edge over 3 bolts, not topped out. Rock Climbing
6
Čertova stěna
In the left part of the right wall, over 2 bolts and the rappel bolt, not topped out. Rock Climbing
5
Čertova stěna
In the right part, up the right crack and gully, not topped out. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Čertova stěna
Up the left edge of the right part of the wall over 2 bolts, not topped out. Rock Climbing
6-
Čertova stěna
Up the wall to the right of the "Jedenáct / 12°" route, over 2 bolts to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čertova stěna
To the left of the "Jalová cesta" route, up the overhanging wall to the 1st and 2nd bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Čertova stěna
5 m to the right of the "Jalová cesta" route, up the chimney to the 1st bolt, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Čertova stěna
Up the "Jalová cesta" route to the 1st bolt, from it diagonally to the right over 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Čertova stěna
Completely to the right on a separate block up a crack to the 1st bolt, upwards over the… Rock Climbing
5
Čertova stěna
In the right part of the wall opposite the "Mefistofeles" tower, through a recess over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Faustova stěna
Up the NW wall over 2 bolts and the rappel bolt, not topped out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hastrman
By the SW edge over K to the "Old Route" clock and along it n. v.
7-/7
Faustova stěna
To the right of the "Horská prémie" route, over 3 bolts to the ledge and right, not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Faustova stěna
By the left part of the right wall over 2 K and the abseiling K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Faustova stěna
Up the overhanging wall to the right of the edge, over 3 bolts to the ledge and left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Faustova stěna
To the right of the "Fujtajksl" route, up the wall to a bolt in the overhang. Then over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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