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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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4
Pazourková věž
Near the NW edge to the start of the terrace, along it to the left behind the arched NE… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pazourková věž
Along the left overhanging edge over the overhang to a point and upwards n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pazourková věž
Along the right uphill (SW) edge into the nest (belay) and to the left along the edge up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tvarožník
Through a prominent artificially carved corner, chimneying up to the overhang. To the… Rock Climbing
5
Tvarožník
Along the left overhanging edge directly into a chimney crack. To its end and diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Prasečí věž
From the uphill side n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Tvarožník
Through a crack onto the foothill and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Tvarožník
To the right of "Overhanging Crack" diagonally to the right across holes to a point. A… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tvarožník
In the right part of the overhanging wall, a chimney to the 1st point. In the ledge under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Tvarožník
To the left of "Green Chimney" with a corner cut to 1st point, then to its end, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tvarožník
To the left of "Overhanging Crack" along the sloping ledge to the left to a point. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Václavka
SE edge a.s.l. Rock Climbing
3
Václavka
Upland edge a.s.l. Rock Climbing
6-
Tvarožník
To the right of "Green Chimney" through a crack and overhang to the right to 1st point,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tvarožník
Over a drop into the center of the upper wall and higher into a recess n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Václavka
Between the "Upland Route" and the "Upland Edge" through the wall a.s.l. Rock Climbing
5
Tvarožník
From the point to the left to the edge into the ledge and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Tvarožník
From NW into the chimney to a point. Further through the chimney to the pre-summit and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Tvarožník
Through the chimney and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Václavka
In the left part of the valley wall through the recess to the balcony to the anchor. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Václavka
From the upland side under the abseiling anchor a.s.l. Rock Climbing
7
Jehla u Hvězdy
From the anchor of the "Valley Route" to the left over 2 anchors a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Václavka
From the boulder step into the upland wall and to the right a.s.l. Rock Climbing
6-
Jehla u Hvězdy
From the SW edge diagonally to the left into the W wall to the 1st anchor. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jehla u Hvězdy
From the anchor of the "Old Route" to the right to the edge and a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Václavka
Western edge over a small balcony a.s.l. Rock Climbing
4
Václavka
NW edge a.s.l. Rock Climbing
7
Václavka
Through the middle of the valley wall over an anchor a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jehla u Hvězdy
From the anchor of the original route straight up the edge a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Jehla u Hvězdy
Upland wall to the left to an anchor, behind the edge into the W wall and a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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