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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Litická stěna
Start at the right downhill edge and further to the 1st K, diagonally to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Litická stěna
Through the left part of the downhill wall across the 1st K to the ledge to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Litická stěna
To the left of the NE edge along the small wall into the crack and along it to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Litická stěna
From the NE edge diagonally to the right to the small crack with K. Further across the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Valcha
On the northern side from the arete, diagonally to the right to the edge of the original… Rock Climbing
6
Valcha
In the left part of the downhill wall with an overhang into a slab and along it across K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Masiv u štěněte (Psí bouda)
Along the left downhill edge across K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Valcha
In the center of the downhill wall a few meters upwards, then to the left to K of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Litická stěna
Along the uphill wall n.t. Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv u štěněte (Psí bouda)
In the center of the downhill wall to the left of the overhang up the steps to K. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Valcha
In the right part of the downhill wall across K into the crack, along it to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Valcha
From the arete in the northern wall directly along the crack n.t. Rock Climbing
6
Valcha
Like the "Velký prádlo" route across the overhang, traverse to the left to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Luční věž
Along the small crack near the SW edge, higher along the edge m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing
4
Luční věž
Through the center of the S wall into the crack and along it m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing
4
Štěně
Along the uphill wall to the right to the edge into the crack and along it m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing
5
Štěně
Along the left uphill overhanging edge m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing
4
Štěně
Through the left part of the downhill wall across K m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Štěně
Through the narrow western wall along the crack m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing
4
Masiv u štěněte (Psí bouda)
Near the right edge about 5 m upwards, to the left of the SW wall and upwards n.t. Rock Climbing
3
Štěně
From the southern edge, upwards to the left into the center of the downhill wall and m.a… Rock Climbing
7
Luční věž
Along the right downhill edge across 2 K m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Luční věž
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Luční věž
Through the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Luční věž
From the left downhill edge diagonally right along the wall to K. Further right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Luční věž
From the upper side to the right into the S wall and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Luční věž
In the southern wall along the ledge to the right to the SE edge and along it m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing
6-
Luční věž
In the right part of the north wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Streerova věž / Streerturm
From the massif, descent and jump n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Matouš
Through the SW wall over the hole n. v. Rock Climbing

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