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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Šerpa
Through the chimney from the downhill side n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Šerpa
Along the downhill edge of the E foreland via 3 K n. t., jump n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Šerpa
Jump from the S massif n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Šerpa
From the uphill side through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Sáhib
In the left part of the downhill wall via ledges to 1st K. Up to the arched shelf to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sáhib
Left of the "Orient Express" route, diagonally left through the wall over the chimes into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Šerpa
From the eastern foreland jump n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Šerpa
Left part of the downhill wall via 2 K and abseiling K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sáhib
Start in the center of the SW wall. Traverse under the small pillar, through it over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sáhibův sluha
Right part of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Sáhibův sluha
In the left part of the downhill wall via 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kámen Martina Luthera
"Old route" to the balcony, traverse left and via the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kámen Martina Luthera
Right part of the downhill wall through the groove to K. Wall to the bench and via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sáhib
Left part of the uphill wall via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Kámen Martina Luthera
Uphill edge to the bench and n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Sáhibův sluha
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Sáhibův sluha
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Sáhibův sluha
Through the left part of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sáhibův sluha
Through the center of the wall via 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Krvavá koruna
Through the center of the North face of the foothills over 3 K to the summit, overhang n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Krvavá koruna
From the West, through a chimney to the foothills, overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Krvavá koruna
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Krvavá koruna
Through the valley crack between the tower and M over an overhang. Then through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Krvavá koruna
In the left part of the North face, through a crack and wall to the 1st K. Left, by a rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Julinka
Through the center of the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Julinka
Along the right valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Julinka
Along the left uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Julinka
Through the center of the South wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Krvavá koruna
By overhang from the massif. Rock Climbing
3
Tajná
From the NW slightly to the right onto the ledge to the bolt and over two steps n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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