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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Kameník
Left uphill edge over the hourglass n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tajná
Directly through the wall into the route "Přepad" and then n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Tajná
Slab to the left of "Hadovka Variant" onto the ledge of the Downhill route. Rock Climbing
6
Tajná
Through the wide uphill chimney to the crack of the "Fall" route and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tajná
From the massif from the East, a fall to the crack with the juniper and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Tajná
Right of the cut, approximately in the middle of the downhill wall under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tajná
Straight along the wall to the bolt "Downhill route". Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Tajná
From the left part of M, a fall to the SE edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Tulipán
By chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Tulipán
By the wall to the right of the chimney over 2 bolts and an abseil bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kameník
Right uphill edge over the bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Kameník
Through the center of the uphill wall via old artificial cuts n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Tulipán
Right of the route "Zálivka" over the overhang to the 1st bolt and the ledge 2nd bolt n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Smrdítka
West edge over 2 bolts and right onto the balcony. Over the overhang to the 3rd bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Smrdítka
Downhill corner crack to the plateau and briefly n. t. Rock Climbing
1
Pivoňka
From the massif to the NE part of the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Pivoňka
Along the crack in the downhill wall to its end (sling) and left along the slab to the…
3
Pivoňka
Between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Pivoňka
Along the right edge over 2 bolts and the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Pivoňka
From the boulder, a small wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Pivoňka
By the wall under the abseil n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Pivoňka
In the center of the downhill wall, by crack to the bolt. Through the slot to the end and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Tulipán
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Bezbranná
From the massif, fall into the NE wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Bezbranná
Up the center of the NW wall to the left of "Západní cesty" n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Bezbranná
In the valley (S) wall to a flake (loop), over the overhang K into the gully and up it n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bezbranná
To the left of "Přepad" from the chimney up the small wall to the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bezbranná
From the massif from the E Overhang to the large holds on the top edge of the tower and n… Rock Climbing
3
Baňka
From the massif 3 m to the right of the route "Přeskok" descend the wall and cross over n… Rock Climbing
5
Bezbranná
Up the recess in the right part of the NW wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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