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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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7
Bezbranná
NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Bezbranná
In the middle of the SE wall over the overhang onto a ledge and directly over the… Rock Climbing
2
Bezbranná
Up the chimney under the original route, higher up step over into the small wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Baňka
From K traverse right to the crack of the route "S Hérou za kariérou" and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Baňka
By placing yourself in the chimney between the edge and the tower, up the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Baňka
To the left of "Ukradené cesty" to the edge, traverse left into the valley wall and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baňka
Up the crack in the S Wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Baňka
Up the overhanging small wall to the prominent gully in the right part of the upper wall… Rock Climbing
5
Baňka
Up the upper wall to the left of the chimney to the hand crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pastevecká věž
From the center of the upper wall, right to the edge and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Pastevecká věž
Up the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Baňka
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Baňka
Up the left part of the upper wall along the crack, passing K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Slaměnka
From the platform on the South side, up the small wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Slaměnka
In the left part of the valley wall, following a crack to the end, then up the wall past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slaměnka
Along the narrow side wall along the edge, passing K onto a ledge (at the edge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Slaměnka
In the right part of the valley face by a crack over an overhang to the saddle and then… Rock Climbing
2
Slaměnka
Chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Zlatohlávek
In the upper face, briefly using a stemming technique, higher over to the right edge and…
2
Zlatohlávek
By the southern edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Zlatohlávek
By the left valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Slaměnka
Jump from M n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Písečná blecha
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Stonožka
Through the middle of the valley face via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Stonožka
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Stonožka
Chimney between M and the tower, higher to the left and then face climbing n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Stonožka
In the right part of the valley face by the ladder n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Stonožka
By the ladder to the southwest edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Kozáček
From E, jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Písečná blecha
By the right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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