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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Kyseliňák
From the massif, jump to the shelf and slightly n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kyseliňák
Through the center of the East face directly over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kyseliňák
In the left part of the upper wall along the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kyseliňák
Through the middle of the upper wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zvonice
In the right part of the SW face, along the edge past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zvonice
Left of "West Route" up the wall past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zvonice
In the middle of the North face, up the crack past the bolt to the end and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zvonice
Left of the "Path along the back" up the wall and the sloping slab past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zvonice
In the West face, up the receding groove. Rock Climbing
6-
Zvonice
Right of the "West Route", up the overhanging crack past the 1st bolt to the edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zvonice
In the middle of the South face, up the crack past the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zvonice
Right of the SW crack, along the rib to the bolt and up the crack and chimney. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zvonice
Left of the "Southwest Crack", up the west face diagonally left to the ledge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stěna nad lomem
In the middle of the lower wall, up the corner crack past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Račská madona
Via the "Normal Route" to the base and up the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Račská madona
From SE onto the foreland, traverse to the base, right 2 m beyond the edge and to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna nad lomem
In the West face, from the slope diagonally right to the 1st bolt and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zvonice
From the east (upper) side, left to the edge and along it past the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna nad lomem
From the North, right to the edge to the bolt and along the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Račská madona
Via the "Normal Route" to the base, left to the balcony in the lower wall and up the NW… Rock Climbing
3
El capitan
In the left part of the massif from the saddle opposite "Račská Madonna" through the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
El capitan
Through the center of the lower wall over 5 bolts and further. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
El capitan
Through the middle of the North face, past 3 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
El capitan
Along the Z edge over 4 bolts to a large cave (hourglass), then to the left along a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
El capitan
Start in the middle of the North face, go up diagonally right to the edge and past 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
El capitan
To the left of the "Central Crack" route over 3 bolts to a large cave (hourglass), then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
El capitan
From the 1st bolt of the "Salathe Wall" route, go left to the lower edge, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
El capitan
Through a lower chimney between the right and left parts of the massif, higher along a… Rock Climbing
6
El capitan
Through the wall below the rappel over 4 bolts and further. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
El capitan
Through the center of the right part of M over a bolt to the crack (2nd bolt), along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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