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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Malý Alenáš
In the right part of the East face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Malý Alenáš
Along the SE edge below the summit and then right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Malý Alenáš
Along the east face, traverse left and up to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Tele
To the left of 'Dad's Route' up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Tele
Up the middle of the S wall directly over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Teletník
From the overhang via a crack to a ledge to 1st K. Along the crack and right to 2nd K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Teletník
In the left part of the wall along the edge over 2 K to a ledge, over 3rd K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Tele
Up the upper wall diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Tele
Via an overhang and edge to the right of the bivouac to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tele
In the right part of the W wall over an overhang and along a small crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Tele
Up the middle of the W wall via a shallow gully to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Tele
Along the right upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Teletník
To the left of the 'Rodeo' route via a crack over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Teletník
Up the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Teletník
In the middle of the wall via small cracks and a gully over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Masiv pod Kostelcem
Along the edge over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Plamínek
In the left part of the valley wall directly over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Plamínek
Along the right upper edge, then via a 'sokolíček' (small projecting rock feature) over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěna nad Teletníkem
Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv pod Kostelcem
In the left part of the massif via an overhanging wall to 1st K and 2nd K. Then via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Masiv pod Kostelcem
Through the corner over the 'hodiny' (hourglass rock formation) and K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Plamínek
Via the 'Old Lady's Path' to a small balcony, traverse left and up to the spikes to K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zatracenec
Along the S edge over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Plamínek
Up the middle of the valley wall directly to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Plamínek
Along the valley edge to a small balcony, traverse right and around the pine tree to the… Rock Climbing
4
Zatracenec
Along the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zatracenec
Directly through the center of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Zatracenec
Left near the W edge, turn left and up the steep left gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Plamínek
Up the middle of the upper wall via a bridging chimney to a ledge and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7
Plamínek
To the left of the Valley Edge via a delicate 'sokolíček' (small projecting rock feature)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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