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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Plamínek
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Krocan
Center of the S wall to a horizontal notch, traverse right into the crack (K) and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Krocan
In the left part of the S wall to the piton, left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zatracenec
In the SW wall into a gully and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Krocan
Right of the route "Bad Estimate" along the edge over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zatracenec
From the left onto the W edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Krocan
From the East via a chimney to the small balcony by the pine tree, left to the piton and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zatracenec
In the left part of the SW wall near the edge, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Krocan
Left of the "Normal Route" via a squeeze chimney to the piton (K) and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Krocan
From the plateau side via a chimney, later a notch to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Datel
Along the NE edge over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Datel
Through the chimney between M and the tower, freely to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Krocan
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Datel
From the massif, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Parabola
From the East by crossing to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Parabola
Along the NW edge over 2 pitons to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Parabola
Through the center of the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dvojrožec
Along the right edge of the tower over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dvojrožec
Along the wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dvojrožec
In the left part of the wall through the crack over 4 rings and the rappelling ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masív u Rejpala
Through the overhanging crack to the ledge, along the edge to the 1st ring and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojrožec
Along the wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dvojrožec
Through the chimney between the tower and the wall over the 1st ring to the ledge, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dvojrožec
Along the valley wall of the tower over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Masív u Rejpala
Through the center of the west wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Velikonoční stěna
In the left part of the wall over the 1st and 2nd ring beyond the edge, then up the斜 wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Boží blázen
Along the left valley edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Boží blázen
Along the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Boží blázen
In the right part of the valley wall to the 1st ring, upwards to the 2nd ring and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Boží blázen
Through the corner crack in the valley wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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