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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Kozí hřbety
Through the diagonal crack past 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kozí hřbety
Along the edge past 4 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kozí hřbety
Middle of the wall to the 1st K, up under the overhang (hourglasses) and to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kozí hřbety
Through a wide crack via 2 K to a large ledge and from there up a slanted wall directly n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kozí hřbety
Through the right corner crack via K to the 2nd K of the Kozlí roh route and it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kozí hřbety
Left corner crack via K to the 2nd K of the Kozlí roh route and it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kozí hřbety
Up the slanted wall to the 1st K, up to the 2nd K and up the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kozí hřbety
Through the depression via the hourglasses to K. Further up the wall via the ledge n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kozí hřbety
Up the wall via the hourglasses to the 1st K, up to the 2nd K and over further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kozí hřbety
Through the crack via K and hourglasses n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kozí hřbety
Through cracks to the 1st K. Over the steps to the 2nd K and up the obliquely receding… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bejk
Right upper edge via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bejk
Right edge of the southeast face via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kozí hřbety
At the very beginning of the ridge to the block itself, up the wall via K numerous hours… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bejk
Right part of the Southeast face via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bejk
From the ledge to the left behind the edge and straight up n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Valečská stěna
Middle of the north wall of the left block along the overhanging small crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bejk
At the northwest edge through a notch to the ledge and obliquely right n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bejk
Wall under the overhang via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Ptačí masiv
Over the overhang to the crack and to 1st K. By crack into the cave, right to 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Valečská stěna
By crack in the middle of the central block over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Valečská stěna
In the left part of the central block by wall to 1st K, further to the pinnacle and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Ptačí masiv
In the right part of the wall over 1st K to the pinnacle, through it over 2nd K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Valečská stěna
In the right part of the north wall of the left block over the break to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Valečská stěna
In the right part of the central block over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Valečská stěna
By the right edge of the central block over K to the ledge, further along the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Ptačí masiv
In the left part of the wall to 1st K, further left over the edge to 2nd K, by wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Valečská stěna
By edge of the right block over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Valečská stěna
By crack in the left part of the left block to the ledge and to 1st K. By edge over 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Strážce snů
From the east, traverse/jump to the summit. Rock Climbing

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