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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Bloková hradba
From the very left of the chimney, diagonally right up to the 1st K (anchor), then into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tříkrálová stěna
Through the crack over 2 Ks (anchors). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Tříkrálová stěna
Middle of the wall of the central block over 2 Ks (anchors) to the rappelling K (anchor). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bloková hradba
Via wall into the crack and along it over bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bloková hradba
To the left of the corner via wall along the edge over 3 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bloková hradba
In the left part, via wall over 2 bolts into the crack and along it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Tříkrálová stěna
Through the chimney. Rock Climbing
6-
Bloková hradba
To the last block, right side of the S wall, over 3 Ks and a rappelling K (anchor). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bloková hradba
In the right part of the wall over 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bloková hradba
In the right part of the wall along the edge over bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bloková hradba
Via crack over bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bloková hradba
Via chimney in the corner n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Bloková hradba
Via wall to the right of the corner over 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bloková hradba
Via chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Bloková hradba
Via crack over bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bloková hradba
Via wall over 3 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Radlice a buldozér
In the middle of the wall to 1st bolt, via fissure to 2nd bolt, via crack n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Radlice a buldozér
To the right behind the edge via wall over 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Radlice a buldozér
Via crack over 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bloková hradba
Via edge over 3 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Radlice a buldozér
In the right part of the wall to 1st bolt upwards via small crack to 2nd bolt via edge n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bloková hradba
Completely to the right via wall over 3 bolts and over rappel bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Radlice a buldozér
To the left onto a separate block, via wall over 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Radlice a buldozér
Via left edge over 3 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Radlice a buldozér
In the middle of the wall over 3 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Koňská stěna
In the middle of the wall via chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Koňská stěna
Up the face to the right crack and by it over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Koňská stěna
In the left part of the wall via crack over bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Koňská stěna
Via corner between block and wall over bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Koňská stěna
In the right part of the face by the left crack over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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