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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Koňská stěna
Up the face below the rappel point over 2 K and a rappel K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Koňská stěna
Along the NE edge over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Koňská stěna
Via edge of the left block over 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Koňská stěna
Right up the overhanging face over 4 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Koňská stěna
In the left part of the wall over 3 bolts and a rappel bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Koňská stěna
Along the edge of the separate block over 2 K and a rappel K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěny u bivaku
Up the wall to the right of the edge over 3 bolts to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěny u bivaku
In the North wall over the overhang to the 1st bolt, along the crack over the 2nd bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stěny u bivaku
Through the left part of the wall over 2 bolts to the small pinnacle, then to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Stěny u bivaku
Through the middle of the wall over 2 bolts to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pichlavá
Up the South edge over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěny u bivaku
In the right part of the North wall to the 1st bolt, left to the crack and through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pichlavá
From the left into the valley wall and through its middle over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pichlavá
Through the crack in the middle of the South wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Stěny u bivaku
To the left block up the wall over the 1st bolt into the crack and through it over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Píchavá stěna
To the left through the corner crack over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Píchavá stěna
Up the wall below the abseil over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pichlavá
SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Píchavá stěna
Through the middle of the wall over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pichlavá
Up the West (plateau) wall over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pichlavá
Along the right valley edge over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Píchavá stěna
In the left part of the wall over 1st bolt to the ledge, then up the wall over 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pichlavá
Along the East edge to a bolt, then left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pichlavá
Through the middle of the North wall over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna kováře
Right of the chimney, up the wall over 2 K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Píchavá stěna
In the right part through the crack over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna kováře
Through the middle of the wall over 2 K to the summit book, left to the balcony and…
4
Stěna lyžníků
Left via the corner n.t. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna kováře
Right up the wall to the crack to the 1st K, up to the ledge and up the wall over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna kováře
Left of the crack, up the wall over 2 K and a retrieving K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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