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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Píchův kámen
In the center of the valley (SW) wall to the ledge (hourglass). Traverse right, along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pichlerova věž
Along the edge left of the 'Old Route' over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pichlerova věž
Through the center of the East wall into a narrow chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Píchův kámen
Along the right upper edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pichlerova věž
Start near the left valley edge or right behind the valley edge, along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Píchův kámen
In the SE wall, through a slanted crack left to the edge. Along the wall near the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Píchův kámen
Through the West wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Píchův kámen
Along the left upper edge to the ledge and over K and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Píchův kámen
Along the valley (West) edge directly to the large balcony of the "Old Route". Rock Climbing
6-
Píchův kámen
Through the center of the upper wall to K and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Cizí věžička
Along the right valley edge to the hourglass and up the wall left to the anchor. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Cizí věžička
Up the left plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Cizí věžička
Up the West wall to the large pinnacle (sling), right into the indentation (sling) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Cizí věžička
Up the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Příbojová věž
Through the crack in the left part of the West wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Příbojová věž
Through the indentation in the right part of the East wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Příbojová věž
Up the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Příbojová věž
Up the South wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kulich
Directly up the left part of the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kulich
Up the south wall from the beech tree over a delicate crack and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Oblík
Right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kulich
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kulich
To the right of the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Oblík
Left part of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
4
Oblík
Directly up the middle of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Oblík
Left part of the east face along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Oblík
From the massif with a jump to the ledge and briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Oblík
Middle of the S face via K and hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Oblík
Left part of the north face below the rappel point, via hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Oblík
Right part of the east face into the crack and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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