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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Růžek
Along the NE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Oblík
Right part of the north face. Rock Climbing
4
Kovaříček
Via the north face over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Růžek
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Růžek
Through the middle of the west face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Růžek
Via the north face over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kovaříček
Via the right part of the S face to K, right behind the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kovaříček
Through the middle of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Trosky (Kocour)
Left of the 'Southwest Route' along the small crack to the saddle and via the ridge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Trosky (Kocour)
From the northeast to the small saddle and left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kovaříček
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trosky (Kocour)
Via a double groove in the right part of the southwest face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Trosky (Kocour)
Via chimney and corner in the middle of the northeast face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Trosky (Kocour)
From the southwest to the small saddle and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trosky (Kocour)
Through a crack in the northwest face, over the small saddle and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Trosky (Kocour)
From the plateau side via a small crack left to the north ridge and via it over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Márnice
Along the right plateau edge by chimneying to the hour-marks and briefly up the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Juliina skála
In the right part of the wall along the edge over 4 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Márnice
By traversing from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Juliina skála
Through the crack over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jižní stěna číře
Through the left crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jižní stěna číře
Through the right crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Márnice
Along the left plateau edge to the rounded summit. Rock Climbing
5
Márnice
From the valley via chimney and wall below the abseil to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jižní stěna číře
To the left block V via the wall upwards to the holes (hourglasses), left to the 1st K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lucka
From the valley side through a chimney, step right to the hour-marks, over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Panečnice
Up the plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Panečnice
From the plateau side briefly upwards, traverse right to the valley edge and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Spare Route
4
Bochánek
Up the wall below the abseil n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bochánek
Through the corner in the valley wall to the ring and up the wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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