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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Lucka
Up the center of the SE face to the terrace and left to the ledge with a pine tree. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lucka
Up the plateau wall and the left edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bochánek
Up the left part of the south face to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Lucka
Start from the ledge behind the right plateau edge. Left into the small plateau wall and… Rock Climbing
2
A..
Up the plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Petřík
From the saddle, traverse left and up the West crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Věž roverských patriotů
In the right part of the East face via a wide crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
A..
Up the edge below the abseil n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Petřík
From the base of the tower, up the right part of the NE face to the small pines and right… Rock Climbing
5
Petřík
Up the wall below the abseiling K n. v. Rock Climbing
4
A..
Up the right valley (South) edge to the balcony to K and right n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Petřík
From the saddle, traverse right (hour-marks) and up the East edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
A..
From the plateau side, traverse right around the entire tower into the valley wall and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž roverských patriotů
In the left part of the valley wall to a splinter, traverse left into a recess and up it… Rock Climbing
2
Věž roverských patriotů
Overhang from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Věž roverských patriotů
Up the center of the South face over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Věž roverských patriotů
From the plateau side, through a short chimney to the saddle and n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Železná jehla
From the massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Apollo 11
Through the crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Železná jehla
Through the crack in the center of the S overhanging wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Železná jehla
From the left, up the wall to the balcony. Rock Climbing
5
Železná jehla
Through the crack in the N wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Apollo 11
From W, through the crack between M and the small tower onto the ledge, then left up a… Rock Climbing
2
Apollo 11
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Železná jehla
Start along the NW edge, traverse to K and original route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Železná jehla
In the right part of the S wall, a short overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Železná jehla
Through the left part of the overhanging S wall onto the balcony on the SW edge (belay).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Apollo 11
Along the valley edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Apollo 11
Up the wall to the right of the start into the crack of "Route to the Moon" directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Apollo 11
Through the right part of the wall over 3 K to the rappelling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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