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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Apollo 11
Through the crack to the 1st K, left into the ledge and over the 2nd K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna bivaku 2
From N by a wide crack over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna bivaku 2
By a crack over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna bivaku 1
In the left part, through the chimney over the 1st K to the adjacent ledge, then left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Stěna bivaku 1
To the first block by the right part of the wall over 4 bolts to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna bivaku 2
By the chimney between the blocks over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna bivaku 3
In the right part by an indistinct corner over 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna bivaku 2
To the right of the Lomenice route by the wall and small cracks over 4 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna bivaku 2
By the wall over iron plates to the 1st bolt. Up to the 2nd bolt, further to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna bivaku 2
From W by a crack to the balcony and by the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Stěna bivaku 3
Through the center of the 3rd block's wall over 4 bolts to an斜 (sloping) crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dáda
In the right part of the valley wall by a crack to a small pillar. To the right by the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dáda
Along the right valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dáda
From the saddle by the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Dáda
Through the center of the valley wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dáda
From NE to the saddle. Left to the ledge, to the N edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Rarášek
From the right upper edge, traverse right into the valley wall and continue on it for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rarášek
Along the left upper edge via a bolt, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Věž před bukem
From the rib/ridge slightly left, free climbing. Rock Climbing
4
Rarášek
Through the middle of the upper wall, free climbing. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věž před bukem
In the right part of the upper wall, free climbing. Rock Climbing
3
Věž před bukem
In the left part of the upper wall to the S edge and up it, free climbing. Rock Climbing
3
Rarášek
Through the right part of the upper wall, free climbing. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž před bukem
In the right part of the valley wall, up the gully and then up the wall to the left, free… Rock Climbing
4
Rarach
In the right part of the upper wall, briefly by chimney/stemming across an overhang and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rarach
Along the northern edge via a bolt, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž před bukem
From the ledge through the middle of the valley wall via a bolt, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Věž před bukem
From the upper side through a hollow to the N edge (pine tree) and up it, free climbing. Rock Climbing
6-
Rarach
Through the middle of the NW wall via 2 bolts, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rarach
Through a crack in the valley wall via the 1st bolt to the pillar to the 2nd bolt, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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