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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Rarach
Through the middle of the upper wall, free climbing. Rock Climbing
7
Rarach
Through the right part of the valley wall via 2 bolts, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Rarach
From the east via a crack to the pillar, traverse left to the edge and up it, free… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rarach
Through the left part of the upper wall, free climbing. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šaman
Right of the route "Lost Paradise" via overhanging crack into widening and further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Šaman
Right onto the block, up the slanted face over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Šaman
Center of the S face over 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Šaman
Descent to the southern part of the tower. Rock Climbing
6
Šaman
Overhanging crack over 2 rings to the shelf (hour-glasses) and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stěna na Rarášku
Edge over 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Šaman
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Šaman
Center of the N face over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna na Rarášku
Edge and face over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Šaman
Left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Šaman
Right upper crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Šaman
Northwest edge over 2 rings to the right shelf (hour-glasses) and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna na Rarášku
Corner over ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna na Rarášku
Crack over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Šaman
Chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hodinářský učeň
Via the valley edge from the left or right and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Hodinářka
From the upper side to the right onto the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Hodinářka
Left edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna na Rarášku
Southwest edge over 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hodinářský učeň
Through the middle of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Silvestrovská
Through the middle of the NE face of the main tower over 2 bolts and higher up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Silvestrovská
In the left part of the NE face of the main tower over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Silvestrovská
Via the NW chimney between M and the main tower to its end, then over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
7
Silvestrovská
In the south face of the main tower along the crack and from the left to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Silvestrovská
Via the right part of the East face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Silvestrovská
Via the south chimney to its end, step left onto the edge of the main tower and along it… Rock Climbing

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