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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
9
Učitel tance
In the right part of the valley wall over K (bolt/ring) and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Tupláci
Through the chimney between the towers to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tupláci
In the left part of the south wall of the north tower over the hourglass into the hole.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tupláci
In the right part of the north wall of the north tower along the crack (loop) to the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Korbel
From the South edge to the ledge in the East wall, traverse right and up over the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Tupláci
From the massif by jumping/stepping over to the south tower. Rock Climbing
1
Tupláci
From the massif from the north by jumping/stepping over to the summit of the north tower. Rock Climbing
2
Tupláci
Through the chimney from the south to the south tower. Rock Climbing
7
Korbel
Along the left part of the East wall over the bolt/ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Srpnová věž
Through the chimney, higher up the wall to the pre-summit. Over the overhang and by… Rock Climbing
1
Srpnová věž
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Disharmonium
From the North from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Srpnová věž
Through the chimney between the cairn and the tower to the end and over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
2
Disharmonium
From the Northwest through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pivní sklo
Through the middle of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Švédská věž
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vidimské cimbuří
Right of the chimney via the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Švédská věž
From J briefly via the chimney, left into a hole in the middle of the wall and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Švédská věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower, higher up via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pivní sklo
In the right part of the upper wall upwards and right via the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Švédská věž
Through the middle of the N wall directly over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Pivní sklo
In the left part of the plateau wall, diagonally left into the hole and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kasa
Through the right part of the upper wall to the pulpit and via an overhanging small crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vidimské cimbuří
Via the small wall left of the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Vidimské cimbuří
Through the middle of the wall right of the "New Route" directly to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vidimské cimbuří
Through the upper chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vidimské cimbuří
Via the wall right of the "Upper Edge" to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vidimské cimbuří
Via the wall left of the original route to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vidimské cimbuří
Through the valley crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kasa
Through the middle of the valley wall to the large 'clock', up to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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