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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Alpin
From the north briefly through the chimney, right onto the edge and up the wall via K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Nálevníci
From SE, traverse from the block to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Nálevníci
Through the center of the small east wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
9
Mouruna
Through the center of the valley-facing wall to the ring, up over the iron-stained small… Rock Climbing
7
Mouruna
Via the south wall over the bolt to the summit.
4
Nálevníci
From E, via the crack to the top of the block, over the overhang and by the edge of the… Rock Climbing
2
Dvoukorunka
Traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dvoukorunka
Around the upper edge from left to right and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Nálevníci
In the middle of the west wall to the summit. (poorly secured) Rock Climbing Danger
4
Nálevníci
On the upper side via stemming/opposition to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Nálevníci
Through the chimney between the lower summit and the tower, step across to the edge and… Rock Climbing
4
Mouruna
Via the upper wall to the summit.
6-
Bosorák
In the right part of the east wall to the bolt. Up the slabby wall (right, hourglass)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bosorák
From the north into the chimney and up it to the ledge of the „Butterfly Effect“ route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bosorák
By the upper edge directly to the bolt of the „Old Route“ and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Bosorák
Along the north valley-facing edge to the 1st bolt. From the right and back to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bosorák
Through the center of the upper wall diagonally left to a ledge and along it right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bosorák
From the valley via a gully/small chimney to the bolt. 2m left via a small wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Bosorák
From the adjacent massif, drop onto a large balcony, from there traverse to a ledge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
2
Věž nad rozcestím
In the left half of the plateau (NE) wall by stemming to the ledge and directly upwards. Rock Climbing
1
Věž nad rozcestím
From the massif, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž nad rozcestím
By the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž nad rozcestím
Completely to the right in the upper wall to a balcony and via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž pod branou
Along the SW edge upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Věž pod branou
From K of "Kramářská Cesta" left to the balcony and upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Věž pod branou
In the left part of the SE wall from the left to the small ledge and along the notch … Rock Climbing
3
Paličáci
Below the rappel, step over into the hole (hourglass) and up from the right upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Paličáci
From the valley, from the chimney, along the arête and right to the balcony. Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Paličáci
Through the chimney between the Paličáks upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Paličáci
Through the overhanging corner in the valley wall of Velký Paličák up into the crack and… Rock Climbing

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