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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Paličáci
From the massif to the summit of Velký Paličák. Rock Climbing
3
Paličáci
Via the overhang from M to the edge of Malý Paličák and directly along it upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Paličáci
Through the chimney from J to the ledge, over the overhang, and traverse left to the West… Rock Climbing
7
Hlaváček
Through the middle of the NE face directly to the anchor (K). Right to the crack, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
1
Palice
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Palice
Via the wall below the rappel over the anchor (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Palice
From the S edge left into the face and through the small cave to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Hlaváček
From the anchor (K) of the original route, directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Palice
Through the chimney over the hourglass upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Palice
Traverse from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hlaváček
Via the eastern edge over the anchor (K) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Palice
Along the right valley edge over 2 K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Hlaváček
Left of the original route, via a depression to the anchor (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlaváček
Via the left or right crack onto the pillar and to the anchor (K), upwards into the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hlaváček
In the right part of the SE face diagonally left to the anchor (K), to the terrace and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hlaváček
In the left part of the upper (SE) face diagonally left to the anchor (K), by stepping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlaváček
Via the 'Black Variant' to the anchor (K), directly upwards and via the right edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Hlaváček
Right of the 'Valley Route' through the middle of the face to the anchor (K) and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Vábnička
From the upper side by a step-across and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dubisko
Through the valley chimney to the southeast fore-rock and via the route 'Duběnka' to the… Rock Climbing
6
Nedamovská věž
Via the upper (SE) edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Nedamovská věž
Through the chimney in the NW face to the saddle between the peaks and the small wall to… Rock Climbing
6-
Nedamovská věž
Via the left valley edge over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kopřivnice
Through the summit chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kopřivnice
Through the middle of the narrow East wall over the bolt under the "head" and right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kopřivnice
Through the crack in the northwest wall (slings) to the saddle and via the "Normal Route"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Nedamovská věž
Through the middle of the valley wall directly over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Bahník
From the massif, a short step to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Bahník
Between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bahník
Through the middle of the summit wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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