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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Hadrburk
Via the NE edge over the clock to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Plešivecká brána
Via the right part of the massif from the west by chimney to the terrace. Rock Climbing
6-
Čepička
Via the left part of the overhanging upper face to K and slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čepička
In the right part of the upper face, to the right onto the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
7
Plešivecká brána
Via the overhanging crack to the balcony and further by double crack to the terrace. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Hadrburk
Via the North edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Plešivecká brána
Via the NE inner wall of the gate over the overhang to the inclined crack, along it to… Rock Climbing
2
Poctivá opice
Through the uphill chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hadrburk
Along the crack at the SE edge to the small balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Poloopice
Through the chimney from the uphill side to the large clock, under the wedged boulder, by… Rock Climbing
1
Poloopice
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Poloopice
Along the left part of the valley wall to the balcony (clock) and over the boulder n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Poctivá opice
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Hadrburk
From J via steps to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hadrburk
Through the crack in the right part of the West face (clock) to the balcony. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Poctivá opice
Along the left part of the valley wall over 2 K, left to the balcony at the clock and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Poctivá opice
Along the left uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Souček
Along the crack in the valley wall to its end and up the wall over K directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Souček
In the left part of the East wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Souček
Along the left part of the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Souček
In the right part of the West wall to a shelf and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Souček
Descent from the massif and overflow n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Koronáček
Left or right of the right uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Koronáček
Along the valley wall to K, diagonally right to the edge and behind it with a swing n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Koronáček
In the left part of the uphill wall (below the rappel point) n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Koronáček
Along the left part of the valley wall to a shelf and to the left n. v.
2
Chudolazská kobylka
From the uphill side by a split n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Chudolazská kobylka
Along the right part of the uphill wall n. v.
5
Souček
Along the northeast edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Klínek
Along the right uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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