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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Klínek
To the shelf on the left edge, along the edge and a small wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Chudolazská kobylka
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Chudolazská kobylka
By a short indentation in the right part of the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Švehla
Directly up the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Švehla
Along the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Švehla
Through the center of the upper wall directly to the abseiling K to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Švehla
Through the right part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Švehla
Up the indistinct pillar in the center of the valley wall to its end (loop), along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž pod bukem
By the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Věž pod bukem
In the right part of the valley wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Věž pod bukem
Along the right valley edge to the summit (unsecured). Rock Climbing
2
Věž pod bukem
From SE through the chimney and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž pod bukem
In the left part of the valley wall along the notch into the hole to the spike and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Lékárna
Up the wall along the holes over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Lékárna
From the center of the wall slightly diagonally right and directly over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lékárna
Start right on the edge into the hole and up the wall to K. Original route directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lékárna
Up the wall over 2 K and from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lékárna
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kamenická stěna
Behind the edge, to the left of the "Viva La Liberta" route, up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kamenická stěna
In the left part of the massif along the edge (BH) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lékárna
Up the wall to the left of the edge over K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lékárna
Up the wall diagonally right into the hole, up the wall to K and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kamenická stěna
In the left part of the massif, up the wall over BH and K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Harvanova sekera
From the block up the south wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kamenická stěna
In the right part of the wall, diagonally right along the receding crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Shniloušák
Up the center of the slab in the E wall to the ring on the terrace with a birch tree.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Shniloušák
Up the right corner of the SW wall to the plateau and along the southern wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ředkvička
Left of the "Upland Route" along the small crack to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vychrtlý ratlík
Up the valley wall briefly into the crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Vychrtlý ratlík
Up the center of the valley wall over the ring directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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