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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Andělíček
In the right part of the upper face, diagonally right up the wall and straight to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Děravá
Through the chimney from the valley side to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Andělíček
In the left part of the upper face to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Únorová
From the massif by traversing to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Narcis
From the E edge diagonally right into the hole and through a depression to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Narcis
From the SW through a depression and right up the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Narcis
Through the East (upper) overhanging edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Narcis
In the right part of the NE face through a crack and further to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Únorová
By opposition and a narrowing chimney in the upper face to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Narcis
In the upper face along the left edge over two ledges into the sub-summit depression and… Rock Climbing
7
Mamlas
Via the Northwest wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mumlal
From the upper side to the left into the reclining South wall and via it to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Mumlal
Via the small western valley wall over hourglass formations directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mumlal
Via the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mamlas
Via the left part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mamlas
Via the upper wall to the right of the tree upwards to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koza
Via the chimney from SE to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Stodvacetsedmička
Via the upper chimney and to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Stodvacetsedmička
Via the Southeast wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Stodvacetsedmička
By stepping over from NW to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Mamlas
Through the center of the upper wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stodvacetsedmička
Via the valley chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Stodvacetsedmička
Via the upper wall diagonally from right to left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mesiáš
Step over into the left part of the upper wall, via the corner to the ledge and from the… Rock Climbing
5
Mesiáš
From the ledge, traverse right below the rappelling K and to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Koza
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Mesiáš
Via the right part of the upper wall to K and with small holds/pitons on the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mesiáš
From the right into the valley wall and via it over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hlaváč
In the center of the valley wall, via overhanging crack to the platform, over the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hlaváč
From E through the gully to the ledge in the valley wall, up the wall from the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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